Go east, young man!

To head east Sarah found the 600k Kettle Valley Rail Trail, a former rail line now bike path. We also had a vague notion to visit movie locations, namely the towns of Hope - movie= First Blood (although the bridge was removed last year) and Nelson - movie = Roxanne. Did I ever tell you how I shared my frappacino with Daryl Hannah? Well, I was in Telluride when (Editor; yes, you have. In fact, you tell the story every time any movie topic comes up, so the rest of this tale has been deleted).

The KVR snakes it's way through aligned tunnels, over wooden trestle bridges and through 5 mountain ranges, often using routes miles from any road or other access.

 

 

 

 

It also takes you right through the Okanagen Valley, the premier wine region. It would have been rude not to sample its produce.

 

 

Cycle touring is allowed to be fun, you know.

 

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Vancouver, again.

Vancouver. Again.

We originally had a route in mind, which involved heading east from Prince Rupert through 1000miles of Canadian forest.

We changed our minds and revisited Vancouver. Reasons: A. It sounded a bit boring. B. We met Jamie in the Yukon on his two-wheeled beamer. He said "Come visit me on Bowen Island if you are that way, it's just off Vancouver". Sarah thought he had 'smiliest' face, so we did. We took our friends Charlie & Judy and spent a great afternoon and evening with Jamie and Sue on Bowen.

 

 

We have learnt that it is worth travelling a long way - even a thousand miles - when you make a connection with someone, or a community, (Editor; even a bar) just to do that; make that connection.

Conversely it is also worth travelling away from home, maybe just so you can come home....

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Wrangell - authentic small town...

If you look up - 'authentic small Alaskan fishing town untouched by modern developments' the answer = Wrangell.

Arriving in the pouring rain we chose to go to a bar. A good choice in any weather, of course. We chose Rayne's bar. Sporadically quiet then very busy, complete with minor family disagreements and 'storming out in a huff' type stuff, the bar was proving entertaining. An elderly first nations gent took a shine to Sarah (Not an uncommon occurence) and on hearing we were English he rendered an excellent impersonation of Wintson Churchill's speeches, complete with crackling radio signal.
So good, he repeated it 32x times. I began to feel like I was in Groundhog Day. A taxi driver eventually came and escorted him out of the bar. It felt a little like the Dolphin, Plymouth.

We were attempting to leave when a large, tipsy group came in and rang the large bell hanging in the centre (Editor: English spelling) of the long bar. This meant he had to buy everyone in the bar a drink, without exception. (Drunkenness on the part of the bell ringer was considered to be no excuse).
So we had to stay. I asked a local how the custom had started. He thought it was to do with landing a boom catch and sharing the bounty, but he had only been drinking there 30 years and it predated him.
That is a bar to have fun in.
The next day was Ok weather, and we thoroughly enjoyed Wrangell (Although it is a place you could go and have a miserable time). I kid you not when I say the town museum was superb.

The following day we waited on the misty dock for the ferry.......

Boarding her on a beautiful morning we headed southward down the coast, and away from Wrangell, away from Alaska.   Until next time.

Old Friends and New Friends.  We have met so many people on this trip so far that we will probably do a post dedicated just to them. But for now we will mention John and Mark, who were the cool guys on Bruce Gordon's we met north of Skagway (Editor: see later post). 
They both live at Juneau, a place that Sarah had expressed an interest in visiting. The capital of Alaska with a population of over 30,000, there are no roads to it - you must fly or boat in. That is interesting in itself. So we used the marine ferry system to leave Haines (Boo-hoo) and stopped off at Juneau to take up John's offer of hospitality at his home with his wife, Steph.
The ferry is some 12 miles from Juneau. People had spoken of Juneau as an 'urban, concrete mess', but au contraire! (Editor: those people should visit Manchester. And you shouldn't use french phrases).

We quickly met Steph, and felt immediately at home.So when she said "Do you fancy a hike this morning?" we were lulled into saying yes. We even looked out of their window at Mt Juneau, our goal. Well, it is over 3500' from sea level to the top, mostly at a severe angle. Steph's native name would have been 'Burning Thigh'.

And just to prove that I am not merely Sarah's Tour Photograher....

On going down Sarah did scare us all with a short glissade atop a 50' slope down a sharp gulley, pulling up just short of the point of no return. My, how we all laughed - not. She is a one.
Before leaving Juneau we caught up with Mark and his boathouse - I could live in it.

 All too quickly we were saying our goodbyes to our new friends.

JULY Entries: Tea Pot of The Month.

We have had two entries thus far.
From the organic cafe at Rock Creek we have this gentle floral number.

This fetching matching pair was entered by the staff at Chute Lake Lodge. They added a  nice touch when extra hot water was brought out without being asked for. Obviously news of the competition and the grand prizes is spreading.

You can vote for either of the above entries by phoning our hotline on
0800 357 246  (1)  to vote for the Rock Creek entry,
0800 357 256  (2)  to vote for the Chute Lake entry.
(Calls cost $15 Canadian or the equivalent. Please ask the account holders permission. Calls made after midnight western seaboard time on 1st July 2012 will not be counted, but you may still be charged. This is a not-for-profit charitable organisation, apart from when the managers need to hold a strategic planning meeting in a strategically located Hawaiin beachside hotel in order to attract the right caliber of strategically minded CEO).

I love Haines, Alaska.

Let me nail my colours to the post; I love the small town of Haines. We passed through 7 years ago and a revisit was always part of our plan.
It did not disappoint.
Is is beautifully situated (Editor: its Alaska, what do you expect?), a great size of about 2000 persons, with a real community feel. Blah, blah.
We were there for our substitute Olympics,  the 4th Of July celebrations!
After the morning parade the town turned out en masse for the various events being held at the park and elsewhere.
These included the ever popular Mud Volleyball.

The Hammer Contest. 

Pictured is the defending champion, Josh, hammering in the 8" railway spike with a heavy hammer with a head not larger than the spike.

He won again with a time of 3.06 seconds, in three hits. Apparently the professionals are only allowed two strikes.

The Firemans Hose Contest.

Two teams face each other and attempt to knock the sliding bouy over to the opponents end.

is it me or are firemen getting younger (And shorter) these days?

There were also traditional events such as the sack race...

.....and the walking backwards on all fours race.

It was a simple delight to share the time with what seemed like a whole town out enjoying itself with simple pastimes and events, all entered upon with great gusto and no small amount of competitive spirit, from 5yrs upwards. The only thing missing (As in a Brit carnival) was a decent punch up.

The evening continued with 7 bands playing at a small outside venue.

Only in Alaska could you find the below mixture of footwear on the dance floor. A good time was had by all concerned. In fact, I intend to spend every July 4th in Haines (Apart from 2013 as we have different plans)

But there is more to Haines than athletic endeavour whilst celebrating kicking our butts out of the continent and live music.
Namely, The Bamboo Room.
(Editor: correctly speaking, the bar is the Pioneer Bar, the Bamboo Room is the connected breakfast room).

I did not imbibe there on previous visit. This time we did. I remember it for the enjoyable time I had sat next to three women (Plus my wife), who for reasons of National Security shall be referred to by their code names of X, Y, and Z. (Although their real names are Mary-Ellen, Brooke & Loretta). If I had not pulled myself away from Mary-Ellen I fear my view when waking would have been this of the bar....

We also met up with Haines friends Rod & Rhonda, who have a local business called Alaska Rod's, stocking Alaskan products and many they make themselves - pop in if you are there, they will both make you feel as welcome as a local.
And Rod has a superb bike, only matched by his beard, but it is rumoured one of them may go this coming year.......but which one?

We were both sad to leave, but are intent to return.