Brenda & Gail and the Slow-as-you-can valley.

We first met Brenda & Gail Elder 7 years ago at the grave of Robert Louis Stevenson, which you may be surprised to learn is at the highest point of Samoa. Although he only lived there a couple of years (The author, not Gail) he was so loved by the islanders that they formed a human chain and passed his coffin over their heads all the way to the top. I hope he was not a big man.

 

We met again in New Zealand, but recent attempts to catch up had failed - until now. The Elders have had an organic farm in the Slocan Valley (Southern British Columbia) since the mid-seventies, and with no small amount of excitement we made our way to their home. We tried to imagine what it would be like.

It did not dissapoint! With Cassie to look after everyone it was hard not to fall in love with the Elder farm.

 

We arrived to a table buckling under the weight of organic veg, roast chicken and fresh fruit. Each day Brenda produced ever-more tasteful and bountiful meals from the beautiful garden, and Gail produced ever-more tasteful and bountiful pre-dinner drinks from somewhere else (Editor: the vodka was particularly notable....)

We helped some around the farm, which although not run commercially any more still produces a great deal of great food. I doubt if we have eaten so well for a very long time.

 

Always there was always Cassie on hand to assist and prompt where required.

 

We also had a canoe/ kayak trip on the almost deserted Slocan lake. Gail & Brenda joined us for the day, but left us to a moonlit camp.

 

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And a swim before breakfast....

With the hanging of the famous door completed we had to pull ourselves away from this idyllic spot. If we had know how lovely it was we would have visited much sooner!!!! This was certainly a visit to be repeated,off only to check on how the door is faring ----- so a big thankyou goes out to Gail & Brenda!

 

 

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Tea Pot of the month: July Winner.

In spite of a strong field for July a shock last minute entry saw the award go to this fine example from Stephanie, a potter working in the Slocan Valley.

With hints of Harry Potter, but actually created before that phenomenon, this strong contender was an instant hit with judges, with a superb pouring action and weight in the hand.

Unfortunately the valuable prize may not be awarded as there has been an allegation of match fixing linked to the Chinese betting systems. A full enquiry is under way, and the investigation team will report back from their Parisian hotel in due course.

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Go east, young man!

To head east Sarah found the 600k Kettle Valley Rail Trail, a former rail line now bike path. We also had a vague notion to visit movie locations, namely the towns of Hope - movie= First Blood (although the bridge was removed last year) and Nelson - movie = Roxanne. Did I ever tell you how I shared my frappacino with Daryl Hannah? Well, I was in Telluride when (Editor; yes, you have. In fact, you tell the story every time any movie topic comes up, so the rest of this tale has been deleted).

The KVR snakes it's way through aligned tunnels, over wooden trestle bridges and through 5 mountain ranges, often using routes miles from any road or other access.

 

 

 

 

It also takes you right through the Okanagen Valley, the premier wine region. It would have been rude not to sample its produce.

 

 

Cycle touring is allowed to be fun, you know.

 

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Vancouver, again.

Vancouver. Again.

We originally had a route in mind, which involved heading east from Prince Rupert through 1000miles of Canadian forest.

We changed our minds and revisited Vancouver. Reasons: A. It sounded a bit boring. B. We met Jamie in the Yukon on his two-wheeled beamer. He said "Come visit me on Bowen Island if you are that way, it's just off Vancouver". Sarah thought he had 'smiliest' face, so we did. We took our friends Charlie & Judy and spent a great afternoon and evening with Jamie and Sue on Bowen.

 

 

We have learnt that it is worth travelling a long way - even a thousand miles - when you make a connection with someone, or a community, (Editor; even a bar) just to do that; make that connection.

Conversely it is also worth travelling away from home, maybe just so you can come home....

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Wrangell - authentic small town...

If you look up - 'authentic small Alaskan fishing town untouched by modern developments' the answer = Wrangell.

Arriving in the pouring rain we chose to go to a bar. A good choice in any weather, of course. We chose Rayne's bar. Sporadically quiet then very busy, complete with minor family disagreements and 'storming out in a huff' type stuff, the bar was proving entertaining. An elderly first nations gent took a shine to Sarah (Not an uncommon occurence) and on hearing we were English he rendered an excellent impersonation of Wintson Churchill's speeches, complete with crackling radio signal.
So good, he repeated it 32x times. I began to feel like I was in Groundhog Day. A taxi driver eventually came and escorted him out of the bar. It felt a little like the Dolphin, Plymouth.

We were attempting to leave when a large, tipsy group came in and rang the large bell hanging in the centre (Editor: English spelling) of the long bar. This meant he had to buy everyone in the bar a drink, without exception. (Drunkenness on the part of the bell ringer was considered to be no excuse).
So we had to stay. I asked a local how the custom had started. He thought it was to do with landing a boom catch and sharing the bounty, but he had only been drinking there 30 years and it predated him.
That is a bar to have fun in.
The next day was Ok weather, and we thoroughly enjoyed Wrangell (Although it is a place you could go and have a miserable time). I kid you not when I say the town museum was superb.

The following day we waited on the misty dock for the ferry.......

Boarding her on a beautiful morning we headed southward down the coast, and away from Wrangell, away from Alaska.   Until next time.